Jeremiah a



J. A. scmvzu.

GARMENT.

(Application filed Jan. 30, 1899.)

(No Model.)

n1: Nnmxs PETERS co vwowouwa. WASHINGTON. o. c.

Patented May 23, I899.

lN-VENTOI? A TTOHNEY NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JEREMIAH A. SCRIVEN, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

GARMENT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 625,423, dated May 23, 1899.

Application filed JannarySO, 1899. Serial No. 703,831. (No model.)

To (all whom it may concern:

Beit known that I, JEREMIAH A. ScRIvEN, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city of New York, borough of Manhattan, county and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garments, of which the following is a specification.-

My invention relates to garments, and is more especially directed to improving the insertions of an elastic nature used in garments, although the invention is not limited thereto, but also embraces the combination of such novel insertion with other parts of a garment.

I will describe my invention with reference to the accompanying drawings, which show a garment made of fabric of a general inelastic character combined with insertions of fabric of a general elastic character. It will be understood, however, that the invention is not limited to such garments. I will likewise have it understood that whereverin this specifica tion I use the terms elastic ant inelastic they are thereby used in a relative sense merely, as it is well known that all fabrics are more or less elastic, so therefore in using these terms I merely express the fact that one portion of a garment possesses greater inherent elasticity than another portion, and it is with this understanding that I use the terms elastic ant inelastic.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a representation of a man wearing an undergarment embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view in plan of the interior of the crotch of the garment shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a fragmentary plan view of the interior of the crotch of a modified form of construction embodying my invention. Fig. 4 shows my invention embodied in an elastic insertion in the form of a stripe; and Fig. 5 shows the insertion shown in Fig. 2 detached from the garment, with its parts folded back to clearly illustrate or exhibit the construction.

The fundamental underlying idea of the invention is the employment in a garment of a particularly efficient elastic member comprising a plurality of layers of fabric secured together and having their wales, ribs, or threads crossing each other-that is to say, the wales, ribs, or threads of one layer run across the wales, ribs, or threads of the other layer,

whereby a most efficient member or insertion is produced, which insertion will have great elasticity diagonally of the wales, ribs, or threads and by reason of the juxtapositionof the threads in the adjacent layers will readily resume its shape after being stretched.

In Fig. 1 the invention is shown as embodied in a pair of drawers. In this figure, aindicates the front sections of the drawers, and Z) the rear sections. The front and rear sections of the drawers are, preferably, of what I term inelastic material or fabric secured together by elastic insertions c and elastic insertions d. As before stated, these elastic insertions cl are of a peculiar nature. The elastic insertion d is shown opened out in Fig. 5, in which figure two layers of fabric are shownone, cl, and the other, 61 It will be observed that the threads, ribs, or wales of the fabric cl are disposed at right angles to the threads, ribs, or wales of the fabric 61 so that thegreatest possible elasticity diagonally of the ribs will result from this construction, as it is well known that most fabrics of an elastic character stretch most readily when pulled or strained in lines running at an angle to the lines of the wales,and no matter in which direc tion the strain occurs one layer will inevitably assist the other layer to resume its original position, thereby producing a highly efficient garment. I prefer that the insertion d should be rectangular and set in the garment in the manner shown in Fig. 3, wherein the said insertion serves as the means to connect the inelastic sections a b at the crotch of the garment and has its front edge parallel to the crosswise insertion 0, so that the insertion cl could be made longer and extended entirely up the back of the garment, if desired- It is well known that the strains in drawers occur laterally of the crotch when the legs are spread and longitudinally of the crotch when the wearer stoops over. By observing Fig. 3 it will be noted that each of these strains will occur diagonally of the wales of bot-h fabricsthat is to say, along the lines of the greatest elasticity of the insertion d.

In Figs. 1 and 2 I have shown a slightly modified construction of the insertion d, wherein the said insertion is set with its front angle d extending into or in proximity with the front opening or fiy e of the garment. In

this case, however, the wales of the two fabrics are crossed (see Fig. 5) and are parallel to the sides of the rectangular insertion; but the said insertion is so set in the garment that the lateral and longitudinal strains occur diagonally of the wales of both layers of fabric. In Fig. 4 I have shown the preferred construction of the insertions c, which are in the form of a stripel In this figure the inelastic sections a b are united by an elastic insertion comprising a strip of fabric a, laid face to face with and secured to a strip of fabric 0 the wales or threads in the fabric 0 running at an angle to the wales or threads of the strip of fabric 0 whereby the highest elasticity is attained longitudinally and laterally. Both of these structures may be combined in a single garment or either one used alone in a garment. Aside from the general utility of elastic insertions constructed in the manner described such character of elastic insertions are highly useful in the positions in which they occur in the construction illustrated; but it will be understood that I do not limit myself to the positions occupied by p the insertions in the garment illustrated in the drawings.

Having described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure byiLetters Patent, 1s

In an undergarment, the combination with inelastic sections of an elastic member connecting adjacent sections comprising a plurality of layers of elastic fabric, the wales or ribs of one fabric running at an angle to the wales or ribs of the other layer of fabric and so set in the garment as to receive the lateral and longitudinal strains on the garment along lines running diagonally to the wales; ribs or threads of both layers, substantially as described and'for the purposes set forth.

The foregoing specification of my improvements in garments signed by me, in the presence of the undersigned subscribing witnesses, this 26th day of January, 1899, at New York, N. Y.

JEREMIAH A. SCRIVEN. \Vitnesses:

MAURICE BLocK, GEo. E. MoRsE. 

